Hair+Analysis

=Hair Structure and Analysis=

This will be review from Cosmetology 10 but it is important to keep in mind when completing a client consultation.

Go to the following video and then read the following review from Cosmetology 10 and then complete the following quiz in Moodle.

media type="file" key="texture.mp3" width="240" height="20" The texture of the hair refers to the thickness of each individual hair. This ranges from fine, medium, and coarse. When testing the thickness of the hair strand draw a pencil line on a white piece of paper and compare the thickness of each strand to the pencil line that you drew. If the hair is the same thickness as the pencil line then the hair is considered course. If the hair is considerably thinner than a pencil line we would call it fine. If it is slightly thinner than a pencil line then we would call it medium.
 * Texture **

Texture is important to keep in mind for hair coloring because course hair is stronger than fine hair and it may require a longer processing time for hair color or a stronger level of peroxide. Conversely, fine hair may be more susceptible to damage from color treatments so pre and post conditioning treatments may need to be considered.

media type="file" key="porosity.mp3" width="240" height="20" Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. Porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticles. If the cuticles are flat and closed then the hair cannot absorb much moisture. If the cuticles of the hair are open then the hair can absorb a lot of moisture. Porosity is categorized as having poor (cuticles closed), moderate (average), or extreme (cuticles open or broken off). You can check the porosity of your hair by taking a strand of hair and running your fingers along the hair shaft, from the roots to the ends. If the hair feels smooth then it has good porosity, because this means that the cuticles are closed. If it feels rough it could be moderate to extreme porosity, because when the cuticles are open the hair will feel rough and it will absorb water easily.  Note that your hair could have poor porosity at the roots where it feels smooth (likely where it is the healthiest), or have extreme porosity at the ends where it may feel rough (likely where your hair has the most damage).
 * Porosity **

Porosity is important to keep in mind for hair coloring because it will control how much hair color will get absorbed and the level to which the hair color will fade after the treatment. If hair is very porous it will absorb the color more readily than hair that is less porous. Think of one hair strand that has extreme porosity on the ends and has poor porosity on the roots. If no fillers are put on the hair to account for the different porosity levels in the hair the hair color will be uneven. If the hair remains porous after the hair color then the hair color may fade quickly. Recommending conditioners with a low pH as well as color shampoos and conditioners will help alleviate this problem.

media type="file" key="elasticity.mp3" width="240" height="20" Elasticity is the hairs' ability to stretch and return. This is very important for anyone who wants to have a perm. If your hair does not have good elasticity it will not hold a curl well. Think of an elastic that is all stretched out, it isn't near as good as when it was new. Some signs of poor elasticity are: hair tangles easily, or the hair can break easily when brushed. Some major causes of poor elasticity in the hair are: brushing the hair when wet, excessive brushing, ponytails that are too tight, or excessive use of bleach or other harsh chemicals on the hair. In order to check for elasticity in your hair you should take a piece of your hair and hold each end between your thumb and forefinger. If you can tug on the hair back and forth for up to six times without the hair breaking then you likely have good elasticity. If your hair breaks after one or two pulls, you likely have poor elasticity.
 * Elasticity **

Elasticity is important to keep in mind for hair coloring since hair that has low elasticity may not be able to handle the harsh chemicals used in permanent colors and bleach. If a stylist does not pay attention to the clients elasticity then they may put on a hair color that will cause more damage and breakage to the hair. When a person has low elasticity to their hair bleach is never recommended and semi-permanent and temporary colors should be used along with deep conditioners until the hair grows out to a level where the elasticity is good enough to color again without causing excess damage . <span style="font-family: 'Bookman','serif'; font-size: 16px; line-height: 0px; overflow: hidden;">media type="file" key="density.mp3" width="240" height="20" <span style="font-family: 'Bookman','serif'; font-size: 16px;">Hair density has to do with how many hairs per square inch that you have on your head. This will be a bit difficult to see unless you compare your hair to someone else's hair. The finer the hair in texture usually the thicker in density. For example, a person with blonde hair may have a fine texture of hair but they have lots of that hair, so we would say they have fine texture (each individual strand of hair is not wide), but that they have thick hair (a lot of the fine hair). Hair density ranges from thick, medium, to thin.
 * <span style="font-family: 'Bookman','serif'; font-size: 16px;">Density **

<span style="font-family: 'Bookman','serif'; font-size: 16px;">Hair density plays a role in hair coloring in relation to how much color your will need to mix for your clients hair. The thicker the hair, the more color you will need, the more you will need to charge your client to cover your costs.